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Thread: MC30

  1. #81
    TYRNTLZRDKING Guest

    Default Re: MC30

    Paul,

    I was thinking the same thing.
    I believe these solid fiberglass areas should be on the top mold section of the boat which has not been started yet.
    You can see the other mold in the background of some of the pictures.
    I am confident that Maine Cat knows what they are doing and will do it right. This is Hull #60, so they must have the process down and refined.

    Thanks

  2. #82
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    Default Re: MC30

    Hi Jeff

    You are right, most would be in the deck. The two I can think of in the hull is a place for bowsprit stays (worth putting in even if you are not getting a schreecher and pole now and Ubolts on the inside of the hull at the back to keep the boat centred in a marina mooring. I am really excited about following your build, it looks like an awesome boat.

    Cheers
    Paul

  3. #83
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    Default Re: MC30

    Quote Originally Posted by tyrntlzrdking View Post
    It is the new "M" CoreCell foam 1/2" thick and vacuum-bagged in place with resin on the foam and Core-Bond Putty against the laminations.
    The outside laminate is generally 3/16" thick and the inside skin is roughly 1/8" thick. Extra laminations are added in areas of higher stresses and loads both inside and out. The keel outside skin is close to 5/16" thick.
    Thank-you for that. I will go and draw that out so I can see it. It sounds fascinating.

    Mike
    Nothing works on an old boat, except the skipper.

  4. #84
    TYRNTLZRDKING Guest

    Default Re: MC30

    Quote Originally Posted by paulrack View Post
    Hi Jeff

    You are right, most would be in the deck. The two I can think of in the hull is a place for bowsprit stays (worth putting in even if you are not getting a schreecher and pole now and Ubolts on the inside of the hull at the back to keep the boat centred in a marina mooring. I am really excited about following your build, it looks like an awesome boat.

    Cheers
    Paul
    I am not getting the "screecher" option but will ask to have the hull reinforced for bowspirit stays.
    I was not aware of other boats having Ubolts on the inside rear of the hulls. Is this really needed? Couldnt I just use the cleats up on top?

  5. #85
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    Default Re: MC30

    Hi Jeff

    I had an extra set of cleats fitted on the inside of the sugar scoops. I noticed that often when backed into a mooring the shore cleats or rings were the wrong angle or distance to stop the stern of the boat moving sideways. If the mooring is tight (as often the moorings are designed for a boat of a monohull and have a section coming across at an angle which makes the part near the walkway narrower) By having a cross line fron the inside of the sugar scoops or hull it eliminates that problem. If you use the outside cleats you have continual rope chafe on the inside of the hulls. I can take a pic of my boat if you like.

    Cheers
    Paul

  6. #86
    TYRNTLZRDKING Guest

    Default Re: MC30

    Pictures are always great.
    I contacted Dick at MC. See what he will do for me.
    I am off to Traverse City up on Lake Michigan for four days of boating classes. ASA 101, and 103.
    Hope I pass.

  7. #87
    TYRNTLZRDKING Guest

    Default Re: MC30

    Dick contacted me and so I added the screecher padeyes with backing plates for $139.00. He said the area is reinforced as standard.
    He did not seem to think the rear Ubolts or cleats were needed.
    Thanks for the help before it was to late.
    Keep the ideas coming. Dont let me miss somthing important.

  8. #88
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    St. Augustine, FL
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    Default Re: MC30

    On the MC41, there is a set of cleats on the inside of the sugar scoops as standard. We use these to secure the dink while underway. Not sure if this directly translates to the 30.

    For others, keep in mind that the MC30 is a pretty proven design. Dick's experience with the 30 led to lots of really thoughtful cleats, cabinets, lighting, placement of winches, clutches, etc, that other designers/boats had missed on the 40' cats we were considering.

    Fair Winds,
    Mike

  9. #89
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    Default Re: MC30

    Attached is a pic where you can see the cleats on the inside. It may not be an issue for you the way your mooring is set out. I found it useful on a leopard 46 in the Med to stop the back moving sideways and rubbing on neighbours when you are trying to sleep and on my mooring in CT when I back in stern to.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  10. #90
    TYRNTLZRDKING Guest

    Default Re: MC30

    Vacuum bagging...






  11. #91
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    Default Re: MC30

    Please excuse my ignorance, (I have been frantically reading wikipedia to try and keep up), but is the result of this process a bonding of the inner skin, to the core, to the outer skin? Thereby producing a complete composite panel?

    Or, as I suspect, is it simply bonding the core to the outer skin extremely securely. They will then smother it with more epoxy resin, plus glass, fillers, wood reinforcements, and matting over the top. Then 'vacuum bag' this again to bond the rest to the core+outer. If so, how do they get a smooth final surface?

    Mike
    Last edited by dmmbruce; 25th August 2010 at 06:08 PM. Reason: added second question
    Nothing works on an old boat, except the skipper.

  12. #92
    TYRNTLZRDKING Guest

    Default Re: MC30

    Gelcoat will give the smooth surface where required.

  13. #93
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    Default Re: MC30

    The inside is normally faired and then painted to get a smooth finish (where there are not internal mouldings, in which case you will then see gelcoat.

    Jeff what do they do where the chainplates go down the side of the hull, I cannot see anything on the hull.

    I am glad Maine are sending pics, it is always great to see a boat emerge over time.

    Cheers

  14. #94
    TYRNTLZRDKING Guest

    Default Re: MC30

    Quote Originally Posted by paulrack View Post
    Jeff what do they do where the chainplates go down the side of the hull, I cannot see anything on the hull.
    Cheers
    Good question. Looks like there is foam along entire side of hull.
    Hope they cut an area of foam out and reinforce with fiberglass and backing plate. I will ask.
    Maybe it is attached just above the foam where the upper and lower molded sections come together?

  15. #95
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    Default Re: MC30

    I would think they need to spread the load so should have an attachment method that spreads the load. Not a bad idea to ask lots of questions as I am sure they will then take more care on the build of the boat. I looked back on mine, if you look at post #29 on Hull#6 you can see pics of the solid section and the fibreglass strips that go down to the keel to spread the load more.

  16. #96
    TYRNTLZRDKING Guest

    Default Re: MC30

    I am told the chainplates are mounted at the solid glass joint were the deck is bonded to the hull.
    They will be mounted in the area above the core on the "Starbd. core" shot above the masking tape inverted "T" just aft of the daggerboard trunk flange.


  17. #97
    TYRNTLZRDKING Guest

    Default Re: MC30

    Some pictures of Maine Cat 30's......




























  18. #98
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    Default Re: MC30

    Are you just getting a little bit excited?

    Nothing works on an old boat, except the skipper.

  19. #99
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    Default Re: MC30

    What lovely pictures. They make the design much clearer. Looks VERY good.


    . . . . . . . . . . .

    Just a question please for my own benefit. I have a cockpit canopy on three sides that is part cloth and part clear. The Maine cat ones look much better. Can you tell me please what the spec is of the clear panels? What do they use and how thick is it?

    Thanks

    Mike
    Nothing works on an old boat, except the skipper.

  20. #100
    TYRNTLZRDKING Guest

    Default Re: MC30

    I get a little more excited everytime I mail out a large check.

    Strataglass acrylic windows with Sunbrella borders is what they use. No idea of the thickness, but I hear it holds up well.

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