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Thread: Replacing Seawind 1000 engines

  1. #1

    Default Replacing Seawind 1000 engines

    Our Seawind 1000 (157) engines are approaching 3000hrs and we have made the decision to replace them. The original Yamaha 9.9DEX long shaft, high thrust, (15hp - derated 323cubic") are no longer available in Oz. The current model is 9.9 FT long shaft, high thrust, 8hp - (reved-up to 9.9 260cubic"). We have heard these aren't up to the task.
    If anyone has experience with this refit we would love to learn from you're experience.
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  2. #2

    Default Re: Replacing Seawind 1000 engines

    Go with Honda 15s 50% more power longer shaft
    By the by I do currently have both the old style
    and new style Yamaha 9.9 the newer one is just fine.

  3. #3

    Default Re: Replacing Seawind 1000 engines

    Quote Originally Posted by victor View Post
    Go with Honda 15s 50% more power longer shaft
    By the by I do currently have both the old style
    and new style Yamaha 9.9 the newer one is just fine.
    If you're going Honda 15, might as well go 20's. Same engine, available in extra long shaft, with "Powerthrust" props.

    But I'd probably stick with the 9.9.s All reports I've heard is that they're very good, and much more economical than the old ones. Should just bolt straight in too...

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Brisbane Australia

    Default Re: Replacing Seawind 1000 engines

    They (the smaller 9.9s) are fine, I had a 1000XL for 5 years with them, just fine, and very economical. And about 60 1000/xls/xl2s were built with them, seem to work alright for those boats as well, but as 44c says, if you really want bigger, go the honda 20s, they are standard fitment to the 1160 lite.

  5. #5

    Default Re: Replacing Seawind 1000 engines

    I have a Pescott 11.7 cat with 20hp Hondas and they are amazing. Now going on 8 years old they have never missed a beat--despite the fact that all I've done is change the oil and plugs once a year. We weigh in at around 4-4.5 tonne and they pushed us into 35knot southerlies at 6 knots with power to spare--this is with the Honda high thrust props on. I'm taking them off for a full service this month to give them some TLC and hope they last another 8 years

  6. #6

    Default Re: Replacing Seawind 1000 engines

    Below is a copy of an e-mail I sent to a friend after I replaced one of my engines 2 years ago, I hope you find it useful.

    Replaced Stbd 2004 Yamaha t9.9 DEX with 2014 Yamaha t9.9 LEX. Old engine was 323cc and weighed approx 55 Kg and had a 7 pin harness. New engine 212 cc and about 50Kg - comes with electric start, electric choke, 6amp "generator", and RC cable bracket; is supplied with Yamaha 703 remote control with key and 16 foot 10 pin harness, fuel hose and 12(?)l fuel tank (swapped the fuel tank back to the dealer for 4l of oil). New engine is about 3cm shorter transom height, and does not have steering friction/lock. A piece of angle aluminium was drilled and bolted into place to lock the engine straight ahead.

    Physically the new engine slotted straight onto the existing swing arm except: displaced a couple of cm to one side to provide space for gearshift and linkage, and removal of 2 cm of fibreglass and wood core to provide additional space for gearshift and linkage. If I had lowered the swing arm stainless support (i.e. cut and reweld) to lower the engine a cm or two I may not have needed to remove the fibreglass, I also note that the Port engine bay appears to be wider and may not need this adjustment.

    The new engine is trimmed out 1 hole (same as old engine) and secured by the 2 clamps and one bolt, with the engine offset I couldn't access the other bolt hole with my (short) drill. The uphaul rope is unchanged with a stainless fitting bolted to the cavitation plate similar to the old engine.

    The key and wiring harness were removed from the remote control and fitted to the boat with the excess length of harness looped and secured with cable ties rather than cutting, shortening it, and fitting new connectors. The new fuel hose was cut and used to replace the old hose (and bulb) from the fuel filter. (If replacing the port motor the new harness is not long enough, Seawind originally removed a section from the Stbd harness and spliced it into the Pt harness to lengthen it - I suggest you purchase a extension harness which has plugs either end. I can't remember what lengths they come in and how long you need, (maybe 5 foot).)

    New hour meter from ebay (<$20) fitted.

    Remote control cables did not need any adjustment and slotted onto the provided bracket (which is a bit flimsy). The gear change linkage is external and to protect the exposed Teleflex cable a clutch cable boot (ebay $8) was placed on it, this boot is a bit tight and it will be interesting to see how long it lasts. I have seen some boats with exposed corroded gear change cables with crap all over them so I think the boot is important. A small, non moving, section of the throttle cable is exposed and has been coated with grease.

    New engine does not have as much torque as the old one, but it is difficult to tell if it cavitates more, although I suspect it does. A seven inch prop (69G-45943-00-EL) will be trialled (in lieu of standard 9.25 inch pitch), note that the 7 inch prop has a built in deflector ring (rather than the bolt on black plastic one) and needs a spacer (6G8-45997-00-00) in lieu of the deflector ring. (I am currently running the 7 inch prop and it doesn't seem to make much difference)

    Engine cost some $3600 (Yamaha had a boat show special on which saved me $300) for a unfitted motor (dealer insisted on charging $100 to unpack it, run it, data dot it, drain and repack).

    All in all I would have to say the fitting was very straight forward and the only thing I would do differently in future would be to lower the engine slightly by lowering the top engine support piece of the swing arm.
    Being experienced, I would be happy to change the other motor on the water, albeit probably without the bolt through the clamp.

    I comprehensively overhauled the powerhead on both motors 2-3 yrs ago. While I really enjoyed doing the overhaul myself, in retrospect it probably would have been more sensible to replace one of the motors then.


  7. #7

    Default Re: Replacing Seawind 1000 engines

    We have just replaced both outboards on our Seawind 1000 "Raffles Class, thanks for all the info Tim but got it a bit late. replaced starboard outboard in January, manual tilt 9.9 high thrust, ultra long leg yamaha. new mounting boards, bolts etc., rewired new engine with old harness, awkward but ok. takes care of different connecting plug. as Tim says control rods fit straight on, we did not have to do any cutting, just enough room. ordered identical for replacement of port outboard this month. horrified when opened box! power tilt? dealer could not source manual tilt, yamaha do not supply. problem with power tilt is the length of the clamp frame, just too long. did not want to cut nacelle. removed power tilt assembly then cut off lower part of frame to match mounting board, this worked ok. had to bolt to lock swing and tilt. also replaced harness with old as before, this is a bit more of a job as wiring harness is awkward to get to.
    hope this helps 1000 owners, maybe there are easier ways!

  8. #8

    Default Re: Replacing Seawind 1000 engines

    It is very interesting how you have dealt with the problem of the power tilt bracket clamp being much longer than on the non power tilt model. A friend has just replaced both his motors and I understand he modified the nacelle/pod to fit the longer bracket clamp. He retains the power tilt but it is not connected and he uses the standard seawind tilt mechanism. I may have to replace my old port engine soon but have been put off by the power tilt problem.

    I would appreciate it if you could post or attach some photos of your modified bracket clamp, it may encourage me to continue with my engine replacement plans.



  9. #9

    Default Re: Replacing Seawind 1000 engines

    Will attach photos of frame modifications, when you remove the power tilt motor and cylinder you will need to temporary mount motor to check tilt trim. this took us about 4 goes and even ended up adding nylon blocks to the front of the frame, you can adjust the trim mechanically, 2 studs but the frame will still need to be locked. replacing the wiring harness for the old motor harness gets over the problems with the length and connection differences with the port motor. All in all the frame mods were a pain and a messy job. but we were committed having the new motor. if you are happy chopping the bottom out of the housing it would be easier, (I think). maybe research other extra long shaft manual tilt outboards, I didn't do it not knowing the problems. you can see the cable connections just clear.
    regards Dave

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  10. #10

    Default Re: Replacing Seawind 1000 engines


    Your photos are most useful and appreciated.


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